Tavcso-valasztas szafarira

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  • #46268 Hozzászólás

    Parker

    Milyen tavcso az idealis egy afrikai szafarihoz (Kruger, Szerengeti, Mara, stb.)? Elsosorban roka-elefantmeretre kell es nem madarakhoz, tipikusan a kocsibol kemlelve.

    Allitolag 10×50. Egyeb tanacs, ellenvelemeny, mas…?

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  • #446473 Hozzászólás

    Sir

    afrika

    8×42 még könnyû cserkeléshez és még este is látsz vele (Leica, Zeiss, Swaro). Én 10x 32-t is vittem magammal nappali cserkeléshez.

    #446472 Hozzászólás

    Tical Face

    Kukker

    10×50 jol bevalt. K Afrika.

    Meg az ejszaka elemlampaval (8D) megvilagitott vizilot is lehetett elvezni.

    #446471 Hozzászólás

    cicero

    velemenyek n, n+1

    I have found that the smaller ones are more useful. You won’t spend all day looking through the binocs, and these can slip in a pocket, out of the way of camera, etc. When on a safari drive, I don’t want to be lugging around a big camera, lenses, huge binocs, litres of water, etc. So, my 10×25 mini binoculars are great. Only cost around R180 (~30USD) b/c they aren’t a “name brand” and they work like a charm.

    ====

    If you want to use your binocs in all light conditions with best results, the formula is magnification X 7 for the exit diameter, as 7 mm is the largest possible entrance diameter of the human iris. So, if you want a 8x magnification, best is a 8/56 and this is a perfect choice for a Safari binoc. Or a 7/50 as well. If you are a birder, it’s a different story.
    Look for the best brands and you’ll see their good standard binocs are in that range. There are some superior brands with phase alignment along the lenses and prisms (like the Zeiss 8×56 Dyalithic) but you’ll pay the price for it. If you can afford it, much more enjoyable.

    #446470 Hozzászólás

    cicero

    velemenyek n, n+1

    I use X8 as this is the max I can hold steady on long distance. X10 would be hard even against a tree or other support. I was told that on standard binoculars you divide the magnification by the other number (forgotten what it means) and the nearer to 5 the better, mine are 8X40 so they are spot on. This is not the same on the compacts but magnification is still important. You will need to spend a fair bit, top bins are £700 but they are not 10 times better than a £70 pair. I would spend about £80 to £100 for a good pair.
    Look in the back of a birdwatching magazine and contact people who repair or service binoculars and sometimes they have good used pairs.

    ====

    I use a 10X42, but then I also use it for birding. 8 times magnification is enough for animals, but I find the smaller light-weight (8×25) binoculars difficult to use and prefer the larger, albeit heavier, kind. In the example given by #1 above, (8×40), the 8 is the magnification and the 40 is the diameter (in mm) of the lenses where the light enters the binoculars. The factor 5 is simply an indication of the brightness of the image that will reach your eyes. So, for example, the 8×25 will give a factor of just over 3 and the 10×42 will give a factor of 4.2. The greater that factor, the clearer should be the visual image (but not necessarily bigger). At least, that is my understanding of it and I do stand under correction.

    #446469 Hozzászólás

    Ludovika

    Tavcso

    Tavcso:
    – kezbol hasznalva min. 8x, max. 12x nagyitas. Frontlencse minel
    nagyobb
    (pl. 42, 50 mm)
    – Allvanyrol, kocsira rogzitve hasznalva akar 20x-30x nagyitas is
    lehet, a
    fenyero itt is minel nagyobb.
    (Minel nagyobb a fenyero, annal nehezebb a tavcso!)

    #446468 Hozzászólás

    Csota

    Velemeny 3-5.

    BINOCULARS

    Bring them! These are, in my mind, mandatory. Believe me – you will use them. Every person should really have their own pair, but at a minimum, have a pair between you and your traveling companion if you have one. A small pair will suffice. I use a pair of Leica 10×25’s and they are great. They are also relatively small.

    What do these numbers mean?
    Binocular size is expressed by two numbers, for example 8×42. The first number is the magnification (or power); the second is the aperture, which refers to the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters. Therefore, 8×42 binoculars provide 8x magnification and have a 42mm objective lens. Remember that when it comes to binoculars, bigger isn’t always better. The higher the magnification, the heavier the binoculars are and the more hand movement and the shakier the image will be – just like with large camera lenses, smaller binoculars are easier to hand hold effectively.

    How much magnification and aperture do you need? When you increase binocular magnification you decrease brightness and field of view. I find that the 10x pair I have are more than sufficient for most safari situations in Africa. The same rules apply here as with camera lenses in that carrying a large pair and holding them steady is not so easy – I find that a compact pair with good optics makes more sense than spending for and lugging a larger pair with added magnification – rather spend on a camera lens!

    As for field of view, the greater the aperture, the brighter the image will be, but the greater the size, weight and cost. Again, the smaller compact size of the 25mm pair provide plenty of view for my taste and these Leica’s are extraordinary when it comes to low light situations – I’ve even used them effectively in those last minutes between dusk and darkness.

    What is the difference between porro-prism and roof prism binoculars?
    Porro-prisms have objective lenses that are spaced farther apart than the eyepieces. Porro-prisms are bulky but usually perform better and cost less then roof-prisms. Also, porros yield a better three-dimensional image. Roof-prisms dominate the consumer market. The objective lenses line up directly with the eyepieces, resulting in a streamlined, compact and lightweight binocular. But roof-prisms usually cost more and lose more light to reflection, which is a disadvantage for astronomers but not for daytime terrestrial viewing.

    What about coatings? Coatings reduce the amount of light reflecting off of the lens and allow more light to reach your eyes. Without coatings, up to 50% of the light entering the binoculars is lost to reflections from the many glass surfaces within.

    A note on how they work: A binocular combines an image seen by both eyes into a single image. Binoculars are basically two telescopes mounted side by side. At the front of each telescope is a lens. Each lens gathers light from the image you’re observing. The objective or lens magnifies the image upside-down. If you’re using the most popular type of binoculars, prism binoculars, a prism in each tube turns the image right-side-up again. With field binoculars, a second lens in the tube functions essentially the same way as a prism, and inverts the image so it appears right-side-up. The light then travels down the tube and into each eyepiece and you see the image.

    ===================

    Even though Tours supplies one pair of binoculars per minibus, your own light weight binoculars will greatly enhance your viewing pleasure. If you’re a “birder”, binoculars are essential. The best range of magnification for safari is from 6X to 8X with a lens size of 35mm

    ===================

    What about binoculars?

    If you’re a “birder”, binoculars are essential. The best range of magnification for safari is from 6X to 8X with a lens size of 35mm.

    #446467 Hozzászólás

    Csota

    Velemeny 2.

    Binoculars are essential for game viewing. You need them to see small or distant animals clearly and they greatly increase your ability to observe behavior of larger animals. In addition, binoculars enable you to see much better in dim light. If you are at all serious about game viewing, we can’t stress the importance enough of having a good pair of binoculars for each person on safari. Binoculars are not provided in the vehicle.

    Some of the wildlife highlights on safari may be at quite a distance and it would a shame to miss out on a magical event like a cheetah or lion hunt, a herd of elephants off on the horizon, or a leopard in a distant tree simply because of improper planning (our worst nightmare). Binoculars become even more important when birding.

    Binoculars between 7 and 10-power are suitable for game viewing. The higher the number, the greater the magnification will be. However, unless you have very steady hands, you may have trouble seeing clearly with a 10 power binoculars. Accordingly, we recommend 7 power binoculars for the average person. The second number on binoculars refers to the diameter of the larger, objective lens. The larger the objective lens, the more light is transmitted and the greater the relative brightness of the image. At the same time, though, the field of view becomes much smaller and the binoculars need to be much bigger. A good compromise is somewhere in the 30’s. Putting both numbers together, we recommend a 7 X 32 and 7 X 35 or perhaps an 8 X 32. You can purchase a good quality pair for $25 – $100. We personally use the Nikon Action Naturalist 7 X 35 which run under $100 when we’re lucky enough to get out of the office and into the bush.

    #446466 Hozzászólás

    Csota

    Velemenyek a webrol

    Can any of recommend the optimal strength for a pair of binoculars to take on safari?

    and if you have specific binocular brand recommendations, that would be great too.


    Author: jasher
    Date: 08/16/2005, 01:27 pm
    Hello,

    You will want something with enough magnifying power (represented by the first number in a description of a pair of binos, e.g. 8 or 10) to be able to identify animals and observe their behaviour at a distance, and enough light-gathering power to be useful at dawn and dusk when a lot of animal activity occurs (designated by the size of the objective in mm, e.g. 25 or 40).

    I would strongly recommend 10×42 binos if you are serious about your game-viewing. At 10x, I could see things which weren’t visible to fellow guests using 8x, and the 42mm objective meant that they could even be used with a spotlight at night. On my last trip, my trusty old pair of 10×42 binos gave up the ghost and I borrowed a pair of 10x25s from my guide. They were excellent binos and were fine for daylight viewing, but the 25mm objective was very frustrating to use once the sun started setting — I could see an animal in the distance with the naked eye, but the light-gathering ability of the binos was insufficient for me to get a good look at it. I’m definitely buying a new set of 10x42s. I have a set of 8x25s I use for the theatre, but they don’t have enough power to use for a safari.

    There is a size and weight trade-off in getting a more powerful set of binos — they will be larger and weigh more.

    In terms of brands…it depends on how much you want to spend. If this is your first safari, you may not want to invest in one of the top brands until you’re sure you’ll be using them enough to justify the investment of $1100+. The Big Three are Leica, Zeiss and Swarovski. I have found that Leicas work much better for me than Swarovski or Zeiss because they fit my face better — obviously a very individual choice.

    The next step down would be a set made by a company like Nikon or Steiner. They cost about $400.

    With binos, you really do get what you pay for. If you buy the cheap ones, they will not deliver the optical quality of the better brands. Try them out side by side — you’ll be able to tell the difference.

    Cheers,
    Julian


    Author: bwanamitch
    Date: 08/16/2005, 02:24 pm
    digitaldiva,

    Julian is right that you see much more with a 10x magnification than with 8x, however, there are a lot of people (including myself) who find this magnification too strong – it’s too exhausting for your hands to keep the view steady for a longer time.

    I personally prefer a 8×56 which has the same weight of a 10×42 but additionally gives you great night vision.

    Whatever you decide to buy, I would NOT recommend these high-tech binos with built-in image stabilizer. These devices are too sensitive for a more rougher safari environment, and IMO good binos should also do a good job without batteries.

    Mitch


    Author: tashak
    Date: 08/16/2005, 02:51 pm
    As you can see from the previous two posts, from very knowledgeable safari veterans, binoculars are rather like shoes. Feet are different, eyes are different. You’ll need to do some homework if you want the best fit, preferably at a good camera shop that carries a range of binoculars. Some people like 8 power, some 10…I know some folks who used 12 power (but only for short periods of time…these are difficult, so beginners should stick to 8 or 10X I think.)

    Good binoculars significantly enhance your safari experience, so I’d recommend buying good one…but that is a relative statement. However if you are spending thousands of dollars on a safari, it’s silly to start counting pennies when it comes to binoculars. If your safari costs $5000, why not plan to spend at least 5% of that ($250) to ensure that you see and appreciate what is there? that will get you a solid pair of binoculars. (Of course if you have it and think you’ll be doing this again, splash out and spend more– higher prices really do get you better optics, and unlike digital cameras, good binoculars hold their value for years–mine have gone up in value.)

    Anyway, at a camera shop, test different pairs…and try to hold and use them for a while. If possible, see if there are any shops that will allow you to buy a couple pair to try at home, outside at different times of day, including after dusk, then return the ones that you don’t want. B&H (website, 88# in NYC) does allow returns, so that’s how I tested and found the best binoculars for me.


    Author: pnd1 (pnd1@cox.net)
    Date: 08/16/2005, 04:37 pm
    Digital Diva,

    All of the previous posters make good sense. Binoculars are very much a matter of personal choice and objective. Very much like cameras. I could carry a digital SLR, which with its large telephoto lenses, weighs a great deal. But weight is very important to me at this point in my travels. I am past 70 now, and every ounce I can forget about forever is a blessing. That is why I now use a very lightweight advanced compact digital camera, the Panasonic FZ 20, instead of, say, a Canon 20D, with a long zoom lens.

    The same thing holds true for binoculars. I carried large binoculars for many years — eight or ten power, with a wide angle field of view giving very bright images. Yet just holding them up to my eyes for long periods, let along hanging on my neck for long periods became a chore.

    So for my next safari coming up in December, I will go as lightweight as I can on my binoculars as well. I will have the same magnification as in the old days, but less wide and bright and heavy. And I won’t carry them on my neck, either — they fit in a small pouch on my belt. They may not give me as brilliant an image as my old ones did, but certainly an adequate one.

    For your info, they are Nikon’s Sportstar 10×25. They weigh only 10 ounces. They cost $75, but are on sale for $52 through August 18 at REI, or via its web site at:

    http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=47804277&parent_category_rn=0&vcat=REI_HP_LD

    Phil


    Author: Kavey (kaveyf@hotmail.com)
    Date: 08/16/2005, 04:50 pm
    Phil
    My dad found a fabulous strap thing for his binocs which is kind of double and creates a butterly over his shoulder so all the weight is supported by shoulders and back not neck but they sit in same position on chest which can be very handy…


    Author: pnd1 (pnd1@cox.net)
    Date: 08/16/2005, 05:09 pm
    Kavey,
    Thanks for telling me about your father’s butterfly straps for carrying and stabilizing his binoculars.
    Over the years, I’ve prefered those neoprene straps for both my cameras and my binoculars — they seem to lessen the weight. But no more stuff on the neck or shoulders for me. I will keep both my FZ20, and my Nikon binoculars stored in pouches at my hips. And when I am using them, they will be attached to me with small wrist straps so I can’t accidentally drop them.

    Everyone should find a carrying and support system that fit their needs and physical limitations. I must be comfortable when shooting and scoping — I need to concentrate on what I am doing, not be thinking about the weight I am carrying, particularly in hot or humid conditions.

    The only thing on my shoulders is my vest, and the weight of whatever I might be carrying in its pockets, such as a converter lens. Everything else is at my hips. It works for me.

    Phil


    Author: Kavey (kaveyf@hotmail.com)
    Date: 08/16/2005, 05:12 pm
    I have to agree. I have arthritic hips and so although I’m happy to carry a fairly heavy backpack for short periods (in the airport etc) I wouldn’t do so during a bush walk for example. For that I’d take the absolute minimum.

    There’s no point having equipment at the cost of one’s health and enjoyment!


    Author: digitaldiva
    Date: 08/16/2005, 06:14 pm
    thanks everyone. yes, i want small and lightweight (like myself, heehee) and not too expensive. after my 13 day safari, i’m travelling on my own in tanzania, zanzibar, maybe pemba and don’t want to lug something too heavy around after the safari. i’ll head over to REI to try some of these out!
    mahalos!


    Author: pnd1 (pnd1@cox.net)
    Date: 08/16/2005, 06:23 pm
    Good luck, Digital Diva. You should be able to find both the 10×25 and 8×25 Nikon binoculars on sale at REI through Thursday, if they are still in your store’s stock. The 8’s are about six or seven dollars cheaper, and very similar in weight.

    Enjoy your safari,

    Phil


    Author: Kavey (kaveyf@hotmail.com)
    Date: 08/17/2005, 05:05 am
    Just to throw in my two pence here, though I’m not as knowledgable as other posters…

    On our first safari we took one (old, heavy) pair of 10×42 (I think) that we borrowed from my dad and one (light, small, new) pair of 8×25 that we bought ourselves.

    I hardly used the heavier pair as I just couldn’t hold it up for long. But it was the better/ easier of the pair in terms of being able to find and view the animal/ bird.

    The lighter pair I hardly used either because the field of vision was too narrow. I’d look up without bins at, say, a tree with a bird in it. I’d memorise the shape of the branch/ leaves there and it’s location within the tree. And then I’d lift the 8x25s up and just be unable to relocate the bird! The field of vision was so narrow that I’d end up searching left to right, up and down, right to left and often be completely unable to find it at all! You’d think it would be easy but I found it very hard indeed.

    With the 10×42 this was easier because one could see more of the tree within the field of vision so one could more readily recognise the area of the tree required.

    The difference between 8 and 10 x magnication was a secondary issue for me compared to the field of vision.


    Author: Sarvowinner
    Date: 08/17/2005, 07:01 am
    Phil
    You’ve done such a good job selling those Nikons at REI that they are now on backorder on REI.com – unfortunately living in Australia I don’t have a real store to go to


    Author: pnd1 (pnd1@cox.net)
    Date: 08/18/2005, 01:25 am
    Sorry about that, Sarvowinner. That happens a lot with on-line sales. I am spoiled, I guess, by having an REI store fifteen minutes away. A definite advantage. However sometimes too much of an advantage. Once in the door I find it hard to resist the array of must-have items. I find it much easier to turn my back on a web site than to leave an REI store with nothing in hand.

    Phil

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